These fish’s name comes from the shape of their mouths and from their green and yellow colorings, both of these similar to those of the parrot. Besides their beak-like mouth and their coloration, these fish also have big and bright yellowish-green eyes. They can reach up to 10 inches. The Purple Blood Parrot has a deep red coloration almost looking like it is purple, some say this color comes from being artificially dyed while others say it is just a color morph. To keep these fish in captivity, water temperature should range from 76°F to 84°F and water pH between 6.5 and 7.8. The tank should have a sandy substrate and hiding places. They are a bit aggressive and as such should be kept with similar sized and similar tempered tankmates. A 42-gallon tank is a minimum recommended to keep a single fish and 10 gallons should be added per fish added to the tank.
Purple Parrot Diet & Nutrition
This species is omnivorous. It can be fed with algae, sinking pellets, and live food like brine shrimp and bloodworms.
Breeding & Spawning Purple Parrot
To breed this species in captivity, the breeding tank should have a water temperature of around 81°F and a water pH of around 6.7. When the fish pair to spawn they will start by spending a lot of time together, they will then build a nest on the substrate, and once the eggs are laid on the nest the female guards the eggs while the male guards the area. Eggs that develop fungus will be eaten. Once the eggs hatch the fry will feed on their yolk sacks for 2 days and once they are finished they can be fed with newly brined shrimp. Once the parents stop tending to the fry they should be separated to prevent the parents from eating them.
Purple Parrot Origin
This genus can be found in Central and South America.
Acclimating Purple Parrot
The water in which these fish are packaged is different from the water in the tank, since these fish are extremely sensitive to water conditions the acclimation process is very important. This process should never be rushed. Aquarium lights should be off for at least the first 4 hours of the fish in the new tank and it should not be fed in the first 24h. There are two acclimation methods: The floating Method and the Drip Method.
Floating method – the aquarium lights should be off and lights in the room should be dim, the bag in which the fish is should be placed on the surface of the water to float for about 15 minutes, this allows the water in the bag to adjust to the water in the tank. The bag should then be cut under the knot and the top edge of the bag should be rolled down one inch, then ¼ cup of the aquarium water should be added to the bag, this step should be repeated every 4 minutes until the bag is full, then half the water of the bag should be discarded and the bag should be put to float again and ¼ cup of the aquarium water should be added to the bag every 4 minutes until the bag is full. Afterward, the Discus can be moved into the aquarium.
Drip method – the aquarium lights should be off and lights in the room should be dim, the bag in which the fish is should be placed on the surface of the water to float for about 15 minutes, this allows the water in the bag to adjust to the water in the tank. The bag contents should be poured into a 1-gallon bucket that has never been cleaned with any chemicals, the fish should be enterally submerged. A siphon, using airline tubing, should be set up and a drip line should run from the main aquarium to the bucket. Several loose knots should be tied in the airline tubing to regulate flow. Sucking the end of the airline tube that goes to the bucket will begin a siphon, the flow should be regulated to 2 to 4 drips per second. Once the water in the buckets doubles, half should be discarded and the process should be repeated until it doubles again. Afterward, the fish can be moved to the aquarium.